Costa Rica: A Toucan
Takes Flight at Tirimbina
Sarapiquí is an area of Caribbean-slope lowland rainforest centred on the Sarapiquí River, north of San José. Tirimbina Lodge and its forest reserve span the river and is about 80 km from the city by road via Route 126, with a driving time of roughly two hours and twenty minutes. Its value for a photographer is not just the wildlife in one reserve, but the number of very different places within reach of each other. During my stay, I visited Tirimbina and La Selva for forest walks, Dave and Dave’s for hummingbirds, Pierella and Cope’s for smaller gardens and local wildlife, and Centro Manú for frogs after dark. There are other sites I did not get to. I stayed four days in the area, had some great experiences and got some great shots, and I’m pretty sure there was more to see and experience.
Tirimbina is probably the most famous lodge and reserve in the area. It has its own rainforest reserve across the river, reached by a 262-metre suspension bridge. The crossing is an experience and the forest is full of birds, but my early-morning guided walk was the least productive of these visits for bird photography. At the end, the guide gave me a list of 33 species we had seen, but I had only a handful of photographs I was pleased with.
This is the difference between bird spotting and bird photography. A bird spotter can identify a distant bird in the canopy, tick it off a list and be completely satisfied. A bird photographer has very different requirements: the subject must be much closer, with enough light, a clear view and, ideally, an interesting wing position. Tirimbina’s dense forest seldom gave me that combination, and its guides are more oriented towards bird spotters and much less aware of the needs of photographers.
The exception, and by far my best photograph from Tirimbina, was made outside the lodge on the main road. A Yellow-throated Toucan appeared at a cavity in a tree where the roadside gave me light and an open view of its flight path. I kept the camera on the cavity as it leaned out and launched. Twelve photographs follow it from the tree into flight, each showing a different balance of body and wings. The album also includes parakeets at balsa pods, a Tiger-Heron, a motmot and a White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at its nest, the only time I saw nesting hummingbirds in the entire trip.
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